So far on this trip I've visited four out of Spain's 17 autonomous communities: Aragon, the Basque country, Castille & Leon, and Madrid. Now I'm in my fifth, Extremadura, which despite what the name suggests has nothing to do with cheddar cheese. Many of the other communities still have their borders closed, but not Extremadura - it's done relatively well in Covid terms and so its restrictions are quite light compared to the rest of Spain. That's why I'm here.
The best thing about my apartment in Cáceres is the shower. It produces hotter and higher-pressure water than any other shower I've ever encountered in all my life to date. Honestly, you could clean tractors with it. The Augean Stables would be the work of a moment. All that steaming hot water is especially welcome at this time of year because it's starting to get a bit nippy outside, and the design of these apartments - stone walls, tiled floors, no sun-facing windows - favours keeping people cool in summer rather than keeping them warm in winter.
You may remember a film about Christopher Columbus, starring Gérard Depardieu, called "1492". Some of the initial scenes were filmed here. (Most notably the bit where two heretics get burned at the stake.) The reason is obvious: much of the old town is entirely free of tourist tat, and when walking alone it's easy to imagine yourself transported back a century or 5. I'm reluctant to use hackneyed words like 'unspoilt' and 'authentic', but they do apply here. It would of course be even more authentic to see a real live stake-burning...I guess you can't have everything.
Meanwhile Sunderland AFC have appointed a new manager that I've literally never heard of. Well, that's what Arsenal did with Arsene Wenger, isn't it? One must at least try to be optimistic. Meanwhile I continue to enjoy watching Spanish football on GOL TV, with its legendary commentator Hector Ruiz. He announces every single goal in the same OTT way. Every. Single. Goal. Specifically, this way. The goal in the clip is worth the watch, incidentally.
Coming here meant a final fond farewell to Madrid. Of all the places I could have been stuck in for a month, Madrid is far from the worst. But it's nice to be back out in the open air, away from the noise and the fumes of the big city. I hope everyone back home is coping well with the Tiers and the socially-distanced Christmas shopping. I can't say I'm jealous.
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| Santuario de la Virgen de la Montaña, a short walk/climb away from the city centre |
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| Looking uphill to the old town |
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The old town. No gift shops in sight.
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Plaza Mayor
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Plaza San Juan
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On the street where I live (Calle Damas)
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Slightly problematic sculpture
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My digs
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Edd vs Food #94
The official worst EVF ever. Obviously I should have known better.
A vending machine with its own microwave....
I tried the €2.50 chicken burger, but I had to throw it away after one bite. |
