Tuesday, 20 January 2026

Dijon, France

As in the mustard, yes.

In fact they don't make mustard locally any more. It's not a protected name linked to a specific place (eg champagne or halloumi). Dijon mustard doesn't have to come from Dijon, just like Scotch eggs don't have to come from Scotland. So now you know.

So far France hasn't been too stereotypical. They do seem to smoke quite a lot, but not as much as the Italians. The only people I've noticed wearing berets were foreign tourists in the capital, young American women getting their friends to film them skipping bohemian-ishly up and down the Champs Élysées, evidently doing the 'Emily In Paris' thing entirely without irony. I haven't yet encountered a single stripey T-shirt (this garment is officially known as the marinière). Though here in Dijon I did see one young man with a twirly moustache.

Paris to Dijon is a journey of 200 miles. The TGV train is blissfully comfortable even in 2nd class. It takes 90 minutes and costs €30. In my original draft of this blog I spoke at quite nerdy length about high-speed trains and how wonderful they are, but events in Spain have prompted me to cut it out (I've taken that Madrid-Malaga line a few times myself.) 

Instead I'll settle for leaving it as a short one this week, along with a pledge that Edd vs Food is not ever going to go back to McDonalds and is instead going to start taking French food a bit more seriously. Starting here in Dijon: see below.


Looking south from the Philippe le Bon tower

Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne
(reverse view of the above picture)

Rue Auguste Comte

Arc de Triomphe
A bit smaller than the one in Paris obvs.

Place François Rude

Les Halles
Central public market, designed by Gustave Eiffel (him off the tower)

Edd vs Food #164
3-course set menu at the Café du Pont, 36 Rue Hoche, Dijon
L-R: bacon & onion quiche, roast ham with potato/mozzarella waffles, chocolate crêpe.
€21, just about heading into mid-range. I'll go up & down the scale a bit in future editions.