In 2018 I took a trip around the Balkans and visited all the countries of the former Yugoslavia - with one exception. I can't quite remember what stopped me going to Slovenia back then. But not to worry, for I have now set things right. I haven't bothered going to Ljulbljana, the capital, which is bigger and presumably more interesting than Maribor, but more importantly chalking off Slovenia means that I've now visited all the countries of Eastern Europe, as the term is generally understood. Naturally there are still many more worlds to conquer.
During my visits to former USSR countries, this blog has often been unsparing in its criticism of Soviet rule. But Yugoslavia was never conquered by the Soviets - they muddled along with their own home-grown dictator, Tito - and so this time it's the turn of the Germans to get it in the neck. The Nazis marched into Yugoslavia in April 1941, and did very bad things, many of which are commemorated in the fairly patriotic Museum of National Liberation here in Maribor.
After a thousand years since the last meaningful foreign invasion of Britain, and with perhaps a thousand years to come of tedious ditties by Ed Sheeran and Adele dominating the airwaves worldwide, it's easy for us in the UK to disparage any hint of defensive nationalism. We can afford to be complacent about such things when the whole world speaks English. But things can look very differently when, within living memory, your country and culture and even your language has been threatened with extinction. (See museum picture below). There's nothing wrong with smaller countries like Slovenia bigging themselves up, provided it's not at the expense of their neighbours. I enjoyed my visit to the Museum of National Liberation and I don't begrudge them their five-euro entrance fee.
The grub here (see Edd vs Food below) is similar to what you get elsewhere in the northern Balkans, in that it's mostly based around meat (cevapcici), potatoes, bread, and cheese. I'm very fond of all four things, but I have to say that - even for an Englishman - it's all a bit bland. Things improve when you travel further south and the more exotic Ottoman / Mediterranean influences begin to show. But I'm not planning to revisit my 2018 trip. In fact, as I write this, I'm not quite sure where I'm going next. I'm just kind of drifting around central and eastern Europe, without any grand plan or itinerary, and enjoying it enormously. Hope you're all well back home too.
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| View of the old town from the south side of the river |
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| Looking over the city from the Piramida hill to the north |
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| Nazi leaflet in the Museum of National Liberation (English caption at bottom of pic) |
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| Castle |
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| Cathedral |
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| Fountain in the main square |
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Edd vs Food #120
Ćuftice (meatballs) with mashed potato and bread.
At Bascarsija, Poštna ulica 8, 2000 Maribor.
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