Having said that, with sandwiches containing jamón y queso, both the ham and the cheese are usually served in very thin slices and so the whole thing can be just a bit too dry for me, needing mayonesa or mantequilla to complete the picture. Usually it's jamón serrano, though you also get jamón York, which simply means the generic pink mass-produced cooked stuff that we Brits are used to. It's not actual Yorkshire ham.
Another interesting delicacy is flamenquin. This is jamón serrano wrapped in pork loin and deep-fried in egg and breadcrumbs. The name, meaning 'little Flemish', is of 16th century vintage: the Spanish associated the golden colour of the egg yolks with the blonde hair of the Flemish Belgians serving as assistants to the Emperor Charles V.
The food here is excellent, and the wine too, yet it's curious how complacent the Spanish are about beer, given how much they drink of it (which is a lot). In both bars and shops, there is virtually nothing but mediocre lager - specifically, pilsner. For a nation that boasts one of the world's great culinary traditions, it's surprisingly that they're willing to wash it all down with fizzy bathwater. Beers that are marketed as 'premium' are generally just stronger pilsners, wherein the extra alcohol shows through rather unpleasantly, without any compensating benefits of flavour or texture.
So I think there's an opportunity for someone somewhere to make billions by introducing the Spanish to proper beer. I'm sure it'll happen one day. In the meantime, I am but a prophet in the wilderness, taking solace in an occasional pint of imported German Hefeweißbier, as and when I can find one. It's a tough life.
Hotel Alfonso X Right in the middle of the city centre. 300 euros a night, or thereabouts. Obviously I'm not staying here. |
Catedral de Santa Maria |
Iglesia de Santa Something-Or-Other |
I didn't dare check out the front of this sculpture. Perhaps a Spanish sculptor mistranslated the English phrase 'give a dog a bone'. |
Edd vs Food #51 Tapas at Restaurante El Cordobes, Santa Maria La Blanca, Seville. Montadito and flamenquin - see above. |
Edd vs Food #52 Pizza Bomba: Tomato, mozzarella, bacon, chorizo picante, veal, onions and a fried egg At Pizzeria La Bambina, Calle Virgen de Regla, Seville. Can't eat tapas all the time, you know. |