Edd's Travels: Cuenca, Ecuador

Quito is a spectacular place, full of natural and cultural wonders, but like all capital cities it’s also polluted, overcrowded and frankly a bit rough at times. After the bars close there is a tangible change in the atmosphere on the streets. I like to think I’ve got a pretty good sixth sense for avoiding trouble, and it was signalling to me loudly in Quito. Besides which, I’ve got a continent to cross. So I headed out to Cuenca.

Cuenca is one of the prettiest towns you're ever likely to see, as the photos below will hopefully demonstrate. I took a long bus ride here from Quito on Sunday - the flight is only $100 or so, but only the local airlines run it. I only fly with airlines that come from countries I trust, and as a general rule the test I apply is whether or not I’d be reasonably happy about getting arrested there. (Admittedly this rule is being waived in a few weeks, for Emirates, but at least I know that one won’t get hijacked.)

Next to me on the bus was a slim woman, travelling alone, who read at intervals from what looked like a small pamphlet of religious devotions, and continually whispered them softly to herself. No doubt she was imploring her Saviour to defend her from the fierce temptations of the flesh awakened in her by sitting next to the handsome gringo. That’s my theory and I’m sticking to it.

Anyway, we finally arrived in Cuenca at 1.45am, much to the obvious displeasure of my hostel’s elderly female proprietor (let’s call her Noras Battios). I guess she had been fast asleep. She’s been OK with me since though.

The eating and drinking here is marvellous if you know where to go. There are hundreds of dodgy-looking and suspiciously empty fast-food joints, but I found an excellent restaurant called Zoe where I had lomo de cerdo con mote pillo (pork loin with egg corn) last night, the best cut of pork I've ever tasted, and chicken cordon bleu tonight.

Yesterday lunchtime, in a different restaurant, I ordered a bottle of Corona and I was somewhat surprised to see him ring it through the till at $5 – that seemed a bit steep for this part of the world – but when it arrived, it was 710ml, ie nearly a pint and a half. Marvellous.

I’m slightly sunburnt and my feet are aching a bit from some very long walks, but otherwise I’m doing fine and I hope everyone back home is good too. Heading out on the bus again tomorrow.