Hue was fantastic. Of all the places I've visited so far on this trip, it's probably the one I'd single out as being a recommendation I could make which people might not otherwise know about.There are a few tourists to be seen in Hue, but not all that many, and you only have to turn a couple of corners to get away from them completely. I walked over to the north side of the river and presently found myself in the Vietnamese equivalent of Jacky White's Market, wherein I soon became quite a focus of attention, though it was of course all friendly. It's easy to relax when you're a head taller than everyone around you.
I visited the Forbidden Purple Palace, from which the whole of Vietnam was governed by the Nguyen dynasty between 1802 and 1945; then the Ho Chi Minh museum, which was full of adoring multitudes of Vietnamese paying homage to their country's saviour and guiding light...not. I was the only person there. I also visited a highly reputable establishent of software purveyance, and picked up an entirely legal copy of Microsoft SQL Server 2005 for just under $1.
On the whole Vietnam is much less Westernised than Thailand - there's no McDonalds, no Starbucks, although I did see one single KFC in Hue and another one in Saigon. And there are hardly any cars: it's all mopeds and scooters and bicycles. (This actually strikes me as a much more efficient and environmentally friendly way of moving people around, compared to our sacred Western model of huge gas-guzzling 4x4s with one person in each vehicle.) Cycle rickshaws are popular in Vietnam, and I've used them quite a few times; once, at night, I persuaded my driver to swap places so I could have a go. I managed to get a decent speed up, although I dare say he weighed a good two or three stone less than I did and so I had it relatively easy. The passenger seat is in front of the driver, rather than behind it, and so riding in these rickshaws sometimes feels like being in a runaway wheelchair in a Carry On film or something.
I left Hue on the overnight sleeper train on Friday night, shortly after midnight, and arrived in Nha Trang at lunchtime on Saturday. The train cost about $26, which isn't bad for a 400 mile trip when it saves you a night's hotel bill too. Sadly Nha Trang turned out to be a complete shit-hole; it has a reasonably nice beach, with islands in sight, but everything was ludicrously overpriced and there wasn't anything to do or see. The highlight of my day was getting my head shaved by a street barber, who used an interesting hand-powered pair of clippers.
Anyway, after one night in Nha Trang, and a brief dispute with my hotel there over their laundry bill (I hope it was an honest mistake that they charged me for washing 4 dresses), I got a train yesterday to Saigon, and here I am. I got off the train at about 9.30 last night and wandered off in search of a hotel; it gradually dawned on me that I was well out of the 'touristy' area (even the hotel receptionists spoke no English), but hey, that's the point of travelling isn't it? In my hotel room I stayed up long enough to watch Andorra 0 England 2 and Andy Murray winning his first 2 sets against Raffle Noodle.
Saigon is a very lively place, very friendly, with plenty to do. The average age of the Hot Backpacker Chicks round here is n-n-n-n-n-n-nineteen, ha ha ha. The old American Embassy, from which the last helicopter famously departed in '75, is no longer there; but there are lots of museums which show in detail how the peace-loving Northern armies were welcomed rapturously by the people of South Vietnam, apart from the thousands of them who were rounded up and shot, and the millions more who were prompted to try and raft it to Hong Kong. But I digress.
Overall I'm very impressed with Vietnam. With hindsight, I think the problem with Nha Trang is that they're trying to develop a tourist resort which relies on rich foreigners shuttling between their luxury hotels and the beach, and not really bothering to explore. But Hue and Saigon are both great fun, so long as you can tolerate the ceaseless stream of hawkers and touts who assail you with every step you take; it's even worse than Bangkok. They offer you motorcycle rides, drugs, and women (in that order). For all that I keep getting offered weed, there isn't much evidence of it - I never seem to smell weed or see anyone smoking joints. Although charlie seems to be everywhere, ha ha ha.
My only gripe with Vietnam is that it's too darn hot for me. I'm sweating like a brittle-boned badger in a basket of bloodhounds. If I ever come back it will have to be at a different time of year. In all three places I've stayed so far, I've been going back to my hotel at regular intervals just to sit under the aircon and cool off for a while, flicking TV channels and always ending up watching bizarre politico-religious Vietnamese soap operas ("Father, I have been promoted to Deputy Commissar of the Northern District. Let us make offerings at the temple." "Leave it out, Ricky, who's gonna watch the bleedin' stall?")
One last thing, regarding Kevin Keegan. Ha ha, ha ha ha, ah ha ha hee hee tee hee ho ho. Thank you.
 |
| Er...independence, please (Saigon museum) |
 |
| Part of the Imperial Citadel in Hue |
 |
| Ho Chi Minh Museum speak English! Is nice! |
 |
| Hue, by day |
